Day 17 (Friday 24 May) 387 kilometres to Santiago. I checked into a private albergue (7 Euro) on the outskirts of Terradillos de Los Templarios yesterday. For the price I paid, I got a lower bunk in a room with 10 beds in it. I enjoyed sitting outside in the sun with a glass of wine while I waited for my dhobi wash to dry. Caledon Angela and I noticed an American jogger head west down the trail at a 5K pace - this after walking I don't know how far today. Afterwards he was apparently doing ab crunches in the back yard. He must be ex-Special Forces.
Our dinner is routine, except that we are seated with Cathy from Colorado, who I have not met before. She was enthralled with the Burgos Cathedral when she passed through there a few days ago. It is huge - possibly bigger than Notre Dame - and incredibly ornate. My reaction is the opposite, however - this place is over the top and I can't avoid a sense of hypocrisy.
I gather my belongings around me and am asleep by 21:00 or shortly thereafter. When I wake a couple of hours later I'm greeted by not 1 but 3 terrific snorers. Not world class, but right up there. One is a woman. At any rate, my sleep deficit increases. I'm awake at 05:45 and out the door 40 minutes later. My little "miner's headlamp" is a big help when I'm repacking. The weather is exactly as it was the day before, except with more mist. My first waypoint is San Nicholas, about 6 kilometres away. There I buy a coffee and a croissant, but the croissant is stale. I am a solitary walker today, heading for Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos, 27 kilometres away
Before the city of Sahagun I come across what I believe is the geographic centre of the Camino de Santiago, with some sort of dedication to the Virgin Mary. After passing through the city of Sahagun (population 170,000), I reach a waypoint about 5 kilometres on where I have a choice of 2 trails. I take the one that moves away for the highway. Once I've made the turn, I am entirely alone. It feels like everyone else has chosen the other pathway. I'm confident of my navigation, however, so I press on alone. I try to purchase some more sunscreen from a small grocery (tienda), but all they have is SPF 10 (I didn't know that it existed). Later in the day I'm overtaken by Dutch Janni. She too is heading for Calzadilla. I reach the albergue 6 hours and 20 minutes after setting out. They have space available. This is an especially good thing today, because there are not many beds in this village. The albergue is more expensive (15 Euro), but it's the new gold standard. Four beds to a room; no bunk beds; and segregated showers that are the best that I've encountered so far.
My heels are a bit sore at the end of each day, despite stretching as often as conveniently possible. They seem to respond to some overnight rest, however, and I begin each morning in reasonable shape, at least as far as heels are concerned. I feel that I should have seen this problem coming, because I've had it before from jogging. I thought that walking would not bring it on - wrong. My athletes foot is about the same. I'm optimistic that I will be able to contain it. At the end of this day I noticed that one toenail had cut into the flesh of the adjacent toe. I've got what I need to deal with that too - so I'm still OK. I've showered; had lunch; done my laundry, and am enjoying a 2nd glass of wine while I get this blog off. Life is good.
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