Najera to Santo Domingo

Day 9 (Thursday 16 May) 595 kilometres to Santiago. A group of us got together for a "pilgrim's menu" prix fixe meal at a local restaurant the evening before. One of the appetizer items is green beans and ham. Our server says "fresca" or words to that effect, so I opt for this choice. The beans arrive sadly overcooked. I've learned my lesson: from now on its ensalada mixto as my source of greens (lettuce, tomato, hard boiled egg, tuna, and a balsamic vinagrette dressing). On the positive side, there are no french fries with my pan fried sole.

I sleep reasonably well in our wonderful private hostel and am awake in time to bid "buen Camino" to Sven. He may have to return to Sweden for business reasons before mid-June, and therefore plans to start walking some 40K-plus days. He is out the door by 06:00 and my take-off time follows 50 minutes later. I walk briefly with a Dutch lady before she realizes that she has left her walking sticks behind. Shortly afterward, I encounter Bristol Sam. We chat for a few minutes before he blips his cruise control up a few notches and "cracks on". He too plans a long day.

Notwithstanding the public forecast, there are mid-level broken clouds and the sun is peeking through. The temperature feels like 7 or 8 Celcius, and there is a light to moderate wind. I walk solo towards Azofra, about 6 kilometres away, where I hope to find some breakfast. Much of the trail is, unfortunately, paved. It allows for a faster pace but is hard underfoot. I don't like using my walking sticks on it, so tend to carry them in my right hand and swing them as if I were marching in a parade. I think back to my days flying tactical helicopters decades before; I don't think that the Squadron Sergeant-Major would be too impressed with either my cadence or my form (I know Art; you wouldn't be either).

For the past 2 or 3 days, there have been grain fields appearing alongside the trail (perhaps Canola?). The stalks are very green and are knee to thigh high. The wind is now very brisk (not an aviation term), such that it appears in waves as it gusts over the grain fields. There are also many vineyards. In France and Italy, Diane and I have noticed rose bushes growing at the end of each row of grape vines, serving as a "canary in the mine" warning that aphids are attacking (they go for the roses before the vines). There are no roses here though; given the cold temperatures, perhaps it's too early in the season for them.

I stop at Azofra for my NATO standard OJ, pastry, and cafe con leche. It's rather cold to sit outside, but I do it anyway. I encounter Perth Heather, who kindly takes my picture, before carrying on alone. After 20 minutes I start down the same road.

Outside of town I encounter a section of the trail that is very muddy from yesterday's rain. My boots become progressively heavier as I trudge through this shallow quagmire. Off to the south, I see some high hills that have a lot of snow on top. Just past the next town, I stop for a short water break and encounter the most singular public notice that I have ever seen.

I arrive at the huge albergue (210 beds) in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, run by a religious order, at 11:55, just over 5 hours after I left Najera. They are processing 2 people at a time, and there is a very chilled line up outside. I join the queue and chat with Rose from the Netherlands. She says: "If they call for 2, then we're married. I've been married several times already on this Camino". After waiting 45 minutes, our turn finally comes. We enter a lobby area and are asked to stow our boots and sticks before sitting down on a sofa to await registration. One of the hospitellera brings us a blanket, so I cannot resist saying: "Rose, we've just met and we're under the covers already". She laughs and we have Perth Heather take pictures.

Chris from New York tells me later that my Canadian friends from the previous 2 days are now in and a casual meat and cheese meal in the albergue kitchen may be in the offing. I work on my blog in the launderette across the street while I tend to the washing and drying of my clothes, and those of 2 others. It's cold outside.

 

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