Estella - Torres del Rio

Day 6 (Monday 13 May) After an excellent pilgrim's meal at a local cafe on Sunday evening, dining with Brian and Cheryl from Indiana and Irmhild from Germany (who was at my table in Roncesvalles at the end of Day 1), I'm in bed by 21:00. I wake around midnight to a room that has occasional waves of mild snoring, but is also very quiet from time-to-time. I drift off again later and then rouse myself at about 05:45. It was the Duke of Wellington (of Waterloo fame) who said that when it's time to roll over, it's time to roll out. After re-packing, I sit down to a light breakfast provided by the albergue and am on the road by 06:50. This is my first clear day. Temperature around 5 or 6 degrees, and light winds. My destination is Los Arcos, 21 kilometres away.

I noticed yesterday that I was coming into olive and wine country, with trees and rows of vines appearing beside the trail. Now I come across a Camino waypoint that is well known: the Fuente de Vino (the wine fountain). A local winery offers both free water and wine from spigots attached to a wall of their establishment outside Estella. I say in German to some Bavarian walkers: red wine for breakfast. I get an enthusiastic reply in return that I don't understand, so I just say "gernau" (correct) in return and head off. Trying to improve a 3rd language is full of risks that you just have to accept if you're going to get better.

In the village of Azqueta, I stop for coffee with the folks from Indiana and Dublin Craig. While using "los servicios" for what the Army calls a "porcelain dump", the overhead light goes out. It's on a timer. The switch is lit however, so I am soon, as it were, back in business.

Given my naturally faster walking pace, I head off on my own, as the temperature climbs into the low 20's. My original thought, following my guide book, was to stop for the night at Los Arcos (still in the province of Navarre). Rain is forecast for later in the week, however, plus I reach this town at 11:45, so I decide to go on another 8 kilometres to Torres del Rio.

First I stop at a pharmacia to buy some adhesive tape to repair my maple leaf luggage tag. I have to wait about 10 minutes while the pharmacist engages 2 local customers in spirited conversation. It's a bit like Italy, routine conversations sound like arguments and are never short.

Leaving town, I stop for some rucksack lunch (stale bread, sausage, cheese, and chocolate). Then, shortly thereafter I encounter a Spanish family coming down the trail in 2 vehicles: donkeys. The group is laden with some burlap bags of what may be produce, and a small boy is sitting atop each donkey. In the distance I notice that one of the higher hills still has snow at the top.

The trail is wide and has a smooth surface, so I make good time into Torres del Rio, arriving at 13:45 after a journey of 29 kilometres.The albergue is privately run by a Spanish chain, and is really nice. Clean, neat, and well-equipped (including free WiFi). A bed, breakfast the next day, and dinner tonight at a local restaurant costs me 20 Euro.

After the usual ablutions, I relax with a cold cerveza outside, talking to Angela from Toronto, Lise from Calgary (another first day acquaintance), and Sven from, of course, Sweden. I'll post this blog now while the WiFi is available, and then include my evening's activities, if any, in tomorrow's blog.

 

Posted with Blogsy